A Brush with Paul Gauguin on the Polynesian Island Hiva Oa

“Gauguin was a revolutionary,” says my tour guide Tim as we drive through the rainforests of Hiva Oa. “He fought against the local church, he fought for the rights of us Marquesans. He lived according to his own values, and we appreciate him here still.” With ornate geometrical tattoos covering his body, Tim is not the kind of guy you’d expect to wax poetically about a 19th century French painter